Mon, Jul 17 -- Our flight to Shannon, which was supposed to leave at 9:20pm, was already delayed til 10:20 whence we arrived at Logan at 6ish, and another hour later was delayed more til 11:20. Finally we boarded at 12:15, after someone was hauled off the previous flight on a stretcher (eek!) and they thoroughly searched the plane for contraband. Our flight was bumpy and cramped, and we all tried to sleep the best we could. I think my seat had extra troubles and was jerking back everytime i shifted, i presume much to the dismay of the person behind me. I had on my sunglasses to aid in my sleeping attempts and another woman in the row behind me said to me "You really do look cute in your big dark glasses. They hide a multitude of sins." ?! What did she mean by that? Perhaps she saw all my seat manouvering attacking her rowmate? Soon enough we landed in Shannon.
Tues, Jul 18 -- Customs was easy and we were soon on our way to get the car, a Toyota Avensis, a model we don't have in North America. Lots of cars were normal sized, even some SUVs, not the sterotypical Euro midget cars. Momo drove perfectly to Limerick/Luimneach where we lunched at Mojo on and walked around. We saw St Mary's Cathedral, built in 1168. The river Shannon runs through the city and we got to see some swans floating by.
Onwards to Cork/Corcaigh! Since our flight was delayed, we didn't get to Ireland til noonish, so decided to skip Bunratty, though we saw it from the road, and continue on. In Cork we managed to find our B&B, the Gabriel House, up a long hill, then down a steep curving driveway to an impossibly sloped car park. We all napped, walked into Cork and dined at The Red Pepper on N. Main St., then returned home. En route, walking up the steep hill, an Irish lad started talking to us, asking where we were from, etc. I did most of the answering and he asked "are you getting married?" I replied "No, not soon anyway." then "do you want to?" ha! an interesting encounter... He bid us farewell and a good vacation in Ireland and gave us all a good chuckle for the night.
Weds, 19 July -- In the morn, we set off for Blarney/An Bhlárna and the fabled Blarney castle and stone -- supposed to grant the gift of the gab. I remember reading about this in Richard Scarry's Busy Busy World from my youth! We got there about 10am, and already tourists were piling in. As we approached the castle, we got stuck amongst a tour group of school kids, much to my chagrin. Turns out they were from Maine and were touring Ireland, Scotland and Wales, there was even a chaperone from Bangor! Inside the castle we went up 127, mostly winding, narrow, claustrophobic, slippery stairs with 1 rope railing to hold on for stability. After coming out at the top I think all of us were shaking like leaves. And the Blarney Stone was right around the corner, barely any time to compose and prepare! I was the first to go, nervous to slide myself back, and gripping the man who is stationed there to keep you from falling.
I kissed it twice quickly, once for me and once for Pa, hoping the man wasn't going to drop me over if that wasn't allowed. Then Mum went, and Momo went, and KK opted out, but took all of our pictures. Then it was back down a kinder staircase to the bottom. We walked around Blarney Mansion, and the grounds with a Rock Close, Druid sacrificial altar, bamboo-looking plants, and of course, palm trees.
Then it was off and around Cork to the east. We got to Youghal, pronouced Yawl/Y'all, and walked around, got picnic items, and saw kids jumping off a diving board on rocks into the ocean.
Then it was off to Ardmore where there was a beach and we picnicked on a bench nearby. The weather grew greyer and even sprinkled, so we just walked along the beach which was warmer than the ocean in Maine, and had lots of beached jellyfish! They looked like giant irises (of the eyeball kind) Momo picked up many of them, I was just brave enough to poke one. We also walked around Ardmore's Round Tower, which was like a round obelisk which monks built back around 1100 with a door way only about a third of the way up to protect it from attack.
There was a cemetary around the tower with lots of nice Celtic crosses, and a ruined church building as well. Later we drove back west to Cobh, pronouced "cove", where the rescue crew went out to help the sinking Lusitania and the last port of call before the Titanic set sail for America. It was a very quaint town. We walked up to the large gorgeous church on a hill overlooking Cork Harbour. Unfortunately we did not get to go inside for long, as they were preparing for a wake for a recently murdered Cork girl who had just moved to Cobh. We proceeded back down to the center of town, and saw people fishing on the docks, catching 1-5 mackerel at a time. They were flopping around on the docks, much to some of our amusements. We dined at The Quay in Cobh, a lovely place looking into the harbour. Goat cheese balls and ciabatta to start, and I had a lamb burger and a pint of Guinness for supper. Delicious! Back to the docks on the other side of the restaurant we saw a statue of the first Irish immigrant to go to America, Emily something, and more mackerel being caught by a ~10 yr old red headed, freckled, so cute! little girl and her dad. KK picked up the fish for fun, and the girl told us that we might not want to watch whilst her dad took care of cracking the mackerels' necks. Then a boy, who could have been Momo's son with his red hair and freckles, tried to sell us some fish, perhaps we could take it back to the hotel? they could prepare it for us? We left the mackerel in Cobh and headed back to Cork.
Thurs, 20 July --We got up early, broke fast at the B&B with the usual of muselix, porridge, eggs, toasts, no black & white puddings yet. Then we headed west for the Ring of Kerry. First stop was Killarney/Cill Airne, which was a town the size of Skowhegan, but very touristy. Mum and I sung what we could remember of Bing Crosby's Christmas in Killarney (and all the folks are home...!) Onwards we stopped at a bog village near Glenbeigh where peat harvesting goes on. There we saw traditional houses set up with thatched roofs, and harvested peat which smelled...interesting.
Continuing along, we drove through the Coomakista pass where fog rolled in, there was a statue of Mary, and you could see fences for the sheep going all the way to the top of the surrouding hills. We lunched in Waterville and walked along the rocky beach there. Along the southern edge we drove a very narrow road to the Staigue Fort, built around 100 BC, and KK and I cautiously traversed the surrounding field in attempt to get close to the sheep.
Ice cream was had by all in Sneem, and KK and I had some weird Irish coffee, or perhaps Bailey's Irish Cream flavour. Finally ending the ring of Kerry, we headed inland towards the Killarney National Park, but not before seeing sheep crossing the road near the Avoca Café. In KNP we stopped at the Lady's View, where the Queen's ladies liked to stop as well. There is a nice view of the lakes there, and in the opposite direction mountains (and clouds).
We got some exercise at the Torc Waterfall, cause Fodor's said there was a nice view to be had if we went a little further than first sight of the waterfall. We went up 242 steps, and continued on an uphill gravel path for a long while, and ending up turning around, never finding said view. Alas. Finally, we noshed in Killarney at a traditional Irish restaurant. Mum and I had Guinness again, and Irish stew, shepard's pie, and salmon, along with too many potatoes were had. Then it was back to Cork for the night.
Links: Here is a nice little tour around the Ring of Kerry. Megalithomania! includes Staigue Fort. Avoca, the café, woven products, fashion and interiors store, etc, has a swanky little website. And finally a different version of Christmas in Killarney by, who else, a band from Nova Scotia!
